Sri Lanka is one of the few places where you can go from the coast to upcountry tea plantations in a matter of hours. I enjoyed getting out into nature, hiking through tea plantations, and getting the rare opportunity to engage with the workers to learn about their families and living conditions. Staying in an ecolodge, where the luxury tents seemed to meld into their surroundings, was a unique way to experience nature and the beauty and serenity of this area.
Long and Treacherous Journey
Thanks to the ridiculous traffic heading out of Kandy, it took us nearly 3 hours to get to Madulkelle, our home for the next two nights. It was already dark and the road was incredibly windy which made most of the group queasy. Not being able to see the road around us was actually a blessing in disguise as we saw the assistant driver jump out on several occasions to guide our bus around the next curve. The bus can only take us to a certain point, after which we needed to transfer to a smaller van and several tuk tuks (for the most adventurous of the group). We arrived at dinner time to the tea plantation and eco lodge and decided to call it a night shortly after.
Unbelievable Surprises At Sunrise
The eco lodge on the tea plantation was a series of luxury tents, spaced far enough for privacy yet close enough to form a community. The tents had all the modern amenities, including showers and Western toilets, yet you still felt like you were in the midst of nature. As the sun peaked out over the mountains, we awoke to the sound of chirping birds and stunning views. In every direction, we were surrounded by breathtaking scenery of the tea plantations and majestic mountains. I would say the treacherous drive was well worth the magnificent surprise to which we awoke.
Hiking the Hatale Tea Plantation & A Visit With the Local Workers
Given the long day we had yesterday, we had the rare luxury of a late start this morning. After breakfast we headed out with a naturalist to hike around the Hatale Tea Plantation. On the way, we saw lizards and millipedes as well as the workers picking tea from the mountainsides.
One of the wonderful things about this tour is that there is a level of flexibility. If we see something we'd like to do or experience, our guide ensures he makes it happen. As we hiked, we came upon a colorful dwelling that was home to the workers. Our guide asked them if it would be okay for our group to walk through their homes and talk to the residents. Sri Lankan people being the beautiful and friendly souls they are, they immediately agreed. In return for their hospitality, we offered them small tips. Our guide has informed us that these are the poorest of the poor and anything we can offer them is much appreciated.
The workers, being Hindu, were sprucing up their homes for the festival of Diwali in preparation for Goddess Laxmi to visit their homes and bring prosperity. Each family is assigned one small space, which is split into a very small sleeping area and a tiny kitchen/eating area. There are four outhouses for the families, lined along the back of the building. Each worker receives 550 Sri Lankan Rupees a day, the equivalent of $3.75, when the bring in 22 kilos (nearly 50 lbs) of tea leaves. Our guide suggested we tip each family that has allowed us to visit to help support their efforts. He also purchased a big bag of chocolates for the children, which one of my colleagues distributed to smiling faces. It is incredible that the workers seem so content given the tight space and the meager earnings. This really puts things in perspective. It is clearly the attitude of these people and not their possessions that allow them to cherish what they have.
One of the wonderful things about this tour is that there is a level of flexibility. If we see something we'd like to do or experience, our guide ensures he makes it happen. As we hiked, we came upon a colorful dwelling that was home to the workers. Our guide asked them if it would be okay for our group to walk through their homes and talk to the residents. Sri Lankan people being the beautiful and friendly souls they are, they immediately agreed. In return for their hospitality, we offered them small tips. Our guide has informed us that these are the poorest of the poor and anything we can offer them is much appreciated.
The workers, being Hindu, were sprucing up their homes for the festival of Diwali in preparation for Goddess Laxmi to visit their homes and bring prosperity. Each family is assigned one small space, which is split into a very small sleeping area and a tiny kitchen/eating area. There are four outhouses for the families, lined along the back of the building. Each worker receives 550 Sri Lankan Rupees a day, the equivalent of $3.75, when the bring in 22 kilos (nearly 50 lbs) of tea leaves. Our guide suggested we tip each family that has allowed us to visit to help support their efforts. He also purchased a big bag of chocolates for the children, which one of my colleagues distributed to smiling faces. It is incredible that the workers seem so content given the tight space and the meager earnings. This really puts things in perspective. It is clearly the attitude of these people and not their possessions that allow them to cherish what they have.
Here Comes The Rain
The weather has been so unpredictable. One minute it's perfectly clear and the next we are in the midst of pelting rain. We thought we had enough time to make it back to our tents before the next downpour, but as luck would have it, we were caught in the midst of it just a short while after leaving the workers' homes. Even my trusty umbrella, which I now carry religiously in my backpack, could not protect me from the sheets of water that seem to spray sideways and drenched the entire right side of my body. At least my head was dry for a change.
In Galle it was the intense humidity that had me showering twice a day and here it's the unending storms that leave me drenched to the core. Regardless of the minor inconvenience of this unpredictable weather, this is the most incredible trip I have been on thus far.
In Galle it was the intense humidity that had me showering twice a day and here it's the unending storms that leave me drenched to the core. Regardless of the minor inconvenience of this unpredictable weather, this is the most incredible trip I have been on thus far.
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